Showing posts with label Khumbu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Khumbu. Show all posts

Wednesday, 22 May 2013

Pre - Trek Essentials


I’ve come some way from the first self-planned trip and characteristic ennui has taken over. I no longer pour over travel literature and websites for hours (the internet has been such a blessing for both armchair travelers and those with wings-for-feet as I!)

But pitching oneself into the unknown, and somewhat unfamiliar, terrains needs its due diligence. Some factors need that prior care in a high altitude trek.

Equipment:

Shoes – The most important item on your check list. You cannot hope to pack in a 4-9 hour walk, depending on the day’s schedule, without the right pair of hiking shoes…(more) 

Sleeping bag – The higher one goes, the colder it’ll get, harping back on high school geography. At the same time, bedding provisions in the lodges tend to get scantier as one goes higher on the trail. While the Everest Base Camp trail is a teahouse trek, meaning one can hope to find lodges at every night halt, a zipped up sleeping bag, with or without lining, will make all the difference between a peaceful night’s rest and a sleepless night spent shivering.

Hiking pole – The road isn’t tarmac, to state the obvious (China has made one to the North Col Base Camp which allows visitors to be transported to it on vehicles, but I’m recounting my experiences along the South face through Nepal here.) The Nepal trail is as gritty, rubbly and in spots, non-existent (!) as a purist thrill seeker could hope for. The pole will guide your step through the briar, and take your weight, that supportive third leg, on many a slippery length.

Tent – Though not required in the Sagarmatha trail, which is crowded with cheap lodges and tea houses all the way, a tent is a must have for visiting places where ready accommodation isn't available.

While there are several other must-have gear on the hike, these four will need some prior handling to get a hang of. Hence, they need careful thought at the purchase stage and some hours/days of toying around with before being packed into the bag – more so if you’ve never used them before.

Health precautions:

Physician consult: (1.) If you have some on-going health issues and/or need to have daily medicines, it is advisable to consult your doctor before the trek. (2.) An orthopedic consult is a good idea if you have old leg injuries or joint problems (knee ankle ). (3.) if you are planning to use Diamox to prevent acute mountain sickness (AMS) but are sulphur allergic, or aren't sure whether this’ll clash with your daily medication, seek doctor’s advice.

Local knowledge:

Currency - http://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/ is a reliable currency converter but sometimes your local contact is better informed. Especially, with the exchange rates fluctuating often on a daily basis these days. Instead of randomly walking into the first money exchanger you’ve laid eyes on, it is better to ask a reliable source for a recommendation.

Weather – What with global warming, the entire climate of the subcontinent is undergoing bewildering changes. We faced untimely rains which affected our itinerary and topsy-turveyed our budget. Being informed of the likely weather conditions can help you pack better, save on the need for buying gear on the go at exorbitant costs and make adjustments to the itinerary minus the panic.

[ Some sites giving accurate weather reports, with 5 to 10 days' forecast are:
                                      http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather
                                      http://www.weather-forecast.com
                                      http://www.weather.com/weather

http://www.worldweatheronline.com and http://www.accuweather.com give up to 15 days' reports. In today's date of satellite imaging, most of these sites give fairly accurate and comparable data.]

Topography – Except viewpoints and the grandiose panorama one can click from there, no one bothers to tell you what the road is really like. No photographer seems to point the lens at his feet; no website posts those inglorious photo-shoots of the trail. ‘Kumbu* road description’ yields this interesting observation from wikitravel: There are no roads in the Khumbu region(!)

One has to walk it to know. Preferably, talk to fellow trekkers who’ve been there before, or are descending.

Language – Admitted, I didn’t use more than chiso (cold) and tato pani (hot water) but it saved me precious bucks on the trail! Hot water is chargeable whereas cold water comes for free. Most lodge owners and shopkeepers along the trail understand a mix of English and Hindi, thanks to the prodigious tourist footfall. Most often your porter and/or guide will act as the go-between, with their help and some wild gesticulation you will manage fine.

However, a smile, a Namaste (that universal code of greeting same as Hindi) and a few courteous questions in the local tongue will win you hearts, as some carefully chosen phrases can show a tradesman you’re savvy and clinch you bargains!

[A useful site to pick up basic Nepali vocabulary: http://the-voyagers.tripod.com/language.htm]

Contacts – I’m a member of http://www.couchsurfing.org/ and http://www.indiamike.com/ [this is mostly a India based travel forum  but has a 'Crossing the Border' section] I prefer establishing some local contacts before going to a new place, asking questions and taking advice from locals – after all, no one knows the land better. Reading up on the trip itineraries of those who’d been there before helps. From current weather reports to political news, where to eat and shop or what to pack for the road, handy knowledgeable tips can be gathered this way.

Our local contact, who arranged our permits and Kathmandu accommodation Lok Silwal, proved an invaluable support.



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* Khumbu is the official Nepali name of the Everest region or Sagarmatha National Park. 



Pre - Trek Reality Bytes


“Go carefully my friend, and rush in only where angels dare to tread,” warned a well-meaning adviser.

The warning came a bit late as I have already returned from my first high-altitude trek. For someone who had never trekked before, I am happy to have reached Gokyo (4750 m.) It wasn’t easy and I paid dearly for some of my ignorance. Lessons were plenty along the way each day…and I intend to share some pointers with other newbies.

40 may not be some people’s preferred age for initiation into such hyper-energetic activity. A lot of conventional wisdom went against my choosing Sagarmatha National Park for ‘ice breaking’. I am fifteen-years too old, fifteen-kilos overweight and a smoker (resolutions of abstinence are easier made than abstaining.) I must say I was grossly unprepared and uninformed.

There is no reason anyone else need be.

Reality Check 1: Age has nothing to do with trekking. It is all in the mindset; if you enjoy walking you can hike up there.

I met many senior citizens from across the world on the trail, There were more 50+ year olds than >18. One of my own team mates, Ajmal Sobhan, an able-bodied retiree, has done this trail three times (but then, Ajmal can put any teen to shame with his level of fitness.)

Reality Check 2: Weight does matter. You have only yourself to pull yourself up there.

While I kept off cold drinks, alcohol, fried food a good six months before the trek, some slip ups happened. A rigorous weight loss program is highly recommended. While weight isn’t a pointer to fitness, the lighter one is on ones feet, the easier it is to clear ground. Yes, there are horses, and helicopters for those who can afford them, but to bank on these to complete the journey is a bit of a cheat!

(Courtesy, Cartoonstock.com)

Reality Check 3: Do yourself a favour - quit smoking on a trek.






I’ve seen a few foreigners smoking without a care in the world outside tea lodges. Some of the Nepali guides and porters, like our sirdar Shyam, took smoke breaks regularly along the trail (he was careful to not do so before clients.) Plain geographical fact remains, the air gets more rarefied as one goes up and our urban lungs are not designed to cope with this. So try to abstain – it’ll be easier for you to climb. Your lungs will cry for all the oxygen it can get.






Reality Check 4: Fitness counts for everything.






The road is a killer most of the way. Stone steps barely a foot wide in places – the same goes for most of the dirt tracks and uneven pebble-laden ground will have you gasping most of the way up (and down.) Yes, I’ve seen several out-of-breath hikers and unashamedly been one of them on most of the ascents but will make sure I pack in a better fitness regime next time.






The fitness aspects to keep in mind deserve a separate chapter.